Food & Drink » Dish

Tower of Tuna


Among the rich, garlic-heavy starters on Chandlers' menu pops an imposingly named dish: Tower of Tuna ($12.50). What arrives as the incarnation of a description foretelling a combination of fresh hamachi and ahi is, in fact, cylindrical, though perhaps stouter than its high-reaching name implies. Semantics, I say, and what may have been exaggerated in height is coyly undersold in description. A cursory glance affirms that indeed, finely diced avocados, red onions and tomatoes--all promised ingredients--are present and accounted for. What's less obvious without empirically gauging the evidence is the red chili, ginger and sesame vinaigrette. Portly though it may be, a certain amount of courage will be required to storm the tower and completely destroy the dish's winsomeness. Begin with the thrust of a tine, toppling the delicate and layered medley onto a wafer-thin piece of sesame and poppy seed crisp. In tandem, the snap of the crisp and supple give of the fish creates an ideal texture juxtaposition for the ping of vinaigrette against the fresh taste of the ocean. Though the dish offers nothing overtly complex in flavor, it's not as simple as it looks, either. And that successful deception is one of Chandlers' most endearing qualities.