Food & Drink » Food Review

Shenanigans Pub & Eatery

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Our national NASCAR infection shows no signs of clearing up. The hopes and dreams of Boise State football fans didn't die with the loss of Dan Hawkins. This is a time when Boiseans need sports pubs, and with a full bar and over 15 beers on tap, Shenanigans is the perfect place to tune out friends and family and get sucked into two or three televisions at the same time. But if you get an itch for involvement—or if the person you are with just cannot stop talking—Shenanigans has you covered. Shoot some pool, throw a few darts or roll that addictive Golden Tee ball.

Walking into Shenanigans around 3 p.m. on a Monday afternoon, my older sister and I were surprised to see several people bellied up to the W-shaped bar weaving down the left side of the restaurant. The large, tinted windows did not really change the gloomy day's already faded hue of gray, but at least it was nice to be out of the rain. Seated in one of the booths, our beer and Coke were quickly delivered as the bar manager, Melinda, asked us if we were ready to order. The menu, likely created so those who might read it only have to glance down momentarily from one of the nine flat screen TVs to select their meal, is divided into appetizers, hot and cold sandwiches, burgers and a small seafood section. Wading through the menu caused us more strain than I would like to admit, so we asked for some fingersteaks to buy more time. Looking for the greasiest item on the menu and steering away from seafood in a bar, I ordered the Philly sandwich with onion rings.

Our food arrived as I was clearing my nasal passages with the side of straight horseradish that I asked for with the fingersteaks. A medium-sized hoagie roll packed with steak, red peppers and onions turned out to be precisely what I required, served with a cup of au jus and accompanied by a healthy portion of onion rings.

The quantity of the portions was adequate, while the quality was what you might expect from an establishment whose top priority is the cable bill—good, simple and oh-so-greasy. After stealing a bite of my sister's Cajun Chicken, I found redemption in the zestiness—though I wondered what was so Cajun about it until I noticed all the discarded jalapenos on her plate.

On our way out, we discovered outdoor seating on a large patio that can easily accommodate several softball teams. The patio itself may be reason enough to return. When the weather warms, Shenanigans will be an excellent refuge for an afternoon relaxing outdoors.

—Jared Sanders usually clears his nasal passages with curry. powder.

Shenanigans Pub & Eatery, 4019 W. State St., 342-3250. Sun.-Thu.: 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri.-Sat.: 11 a.m.-late