Food & Drink » Dish

Pollo Rey Fish Tacos


A fish taco might seem like a hard thing to screw up. You take a tortilla, some fish and cabbage, then drizzle a mayo-based hot sauce on top. Shazam. The crunch of the cabbage plays off the flakiness of the fish and the creamy sauce counters the dryness of a corn tortilla. Heaven. But a number of places around town have botched this simple summer snack. Either the fish is too watery and the tortillas crack open and drop their contents like a messy trap door, or instead of cabbage, they--gasp--use shredded lettuce.

Pollo Rey has nailed it. To counter the splitting sitch, they go double-ply--two thin corn tortillas are lightly grilled and topped with seasoned, flaky white fish, shredded green and red cabbage, onions and cilantro. The mayo sauce is the kicker--tangy and creamy with an enduring heat. At the salsa bar, you can choose between a sweet, green onion-laden tomatillo or a mild chunky red to accentuate. A fish taco need not be more complicated than that.

And while some have proclaimed Pollo Rey's fish burrito the superior of the aquatic cousins--with rice and cabbage wrapped in a flour diaper--I remain biased toward the fish taco in all its simple perfection.