Food & Drink » Food Review

Bistro @ BoDo


I've come to the conclusion that my life exists in two distinct phases: before I tried the bacon chop with Irish whiskey sauce and sauteed bananas at Bistro @ Bodo, and after. The only problem with my little theory is that I'm not sure the "before" period qualifies as "living."

Yes, the bacon chop is that good—and, yes, there is such a thing as a bacon chop. And a God.

But it's also sad. Last Friday, when I joined two friends at the restaurant that now occupies the former Kulture Klatsch, we were the only people in the restaurant. And though the meal was one of the most imaginative and decadent spreads I've ever had in Boise, all three of us left feeling like we had ripped off the restaurant. The bacon chop cost $18. Our table's duck confit (or as I prefer to label it, "Duck Flavored Ice Cream on a Bone") was also $18. Both dishes would sell for near twice that price in any other city, and even at lesser restaurants in Boise, but in the loneliest fine dining paradise downtown, they're giving it away—sort of.

This reeks of ... I don't want to say it. No, you can't make me. Go away.

OK, it reminds me of all the other great fine dining restaurants in Boise that have died because of (from my totally fallible perspective) lack of support. I'll spare you the casualty list, but it's long and delicious. It's not wrong to miss the Kulture Klatsch. We all do, and that's probably why the Bistro is empty. But if you—all of you—don't mobilize immediately to save the endangered bacon chop, I'll never forgive you.

But enough doom-speak. Bistro @ Bodo is here now, and in case you can't tell, it's great. From the roasted pear salad with parmigiano reggiano, toasted walnuts and arugula, to the fresh mussels in white wine and green curry, to the seared scallops with risotto flavored with Parmesan cream and spring vegetables, the dishes were as good as they sounded, and we ordered all three. With the bacon chop, duck, a bottle of wine and two desserts (creme brulee and rose-flavored sorbet, both delicious) the bill wasn't too far on the bad side of $100. Country boy, that be a steal.

However, there was a singular dark spot on the evening—our server. As we were ordering, he made more than one comment implying he thought my cohorts and I were too poor, cheap or lame to be at his restaurant ordering a full meal and a bottle of wine. It was classic "You guys do know this is a fine dining restaurant, right?" cheekiness, and I won't embarrass him by repeating the specifics. However, after I dropped my wee notebook on the floor (accidentally, I promise!) he brought us complimentary gazpacho, dessert wine and coupons for discounts on our future visits. "Methinks the waiter doth grovel too much!" offered one of the writer-types at the table.

True, but here's a surprise—I don't care. I'll go back, and you should, too, for your own good. The food is so good, you won't care.

—Nicholas Collias won't shut up about the bacon chop.

Bistro @ BoDo, 409 S. 8th St., 345-0452. Tue.-Fri.: 11 a.m.-2 p.m., Tue.-Sat.: 5 p.m.-9 p.m., Sat.-Sun.: 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m.