Fusion food, by its very nature, has the potential to be amazing. If you love the simplicity of a Japanese dish, but yearn for the spiciness of a Spanish treat, you might love sticky rice and seaweed wrapped around a slice of cod and some piquillo peppers. But even a more mundane meal can be notched up with the addition of something equally plebian but surprising. Right next to crab cakes and a house bruschetta on the appetizer menu, The Tavern at Bown offers a pot roast nacho plate. Instead of cooked baby carrots and new potatoes, this Sunday dinner staple sits atop a bed of red and yellow tortilla chips surrounded by giant slices of jalapeno, two kinds of melty cheese and a healthy dollop of sour cream. The pot roast doesn't pretend to be anything but, and it doesn't hide its identity beneath seasonings meant to give it a Mexican-food flavor. And unlike ground hamburger or little chunks of chicken, the tender juicy cut of beef doesn't topple off the chips. The portion is easily big enough for four, but they'd better be three of your very best friends or maybe three people who owe you a favor. Even if you're a very generous person, once you've taken the first bite, stuffing your face becomes a bigger priority than being a good sharer.
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