11123 State St., Star, 208-286-7743
Mon.-Sat.: 11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Sun.: brunch, 9 a.m.-1 p.m., open until 11 p.m.
"I think the difference between breakfast and brunch is if they have mimosas."
Roughly 20 miles from downtown Boise sits Sully's Pub and Grill in the heart of Star (with a population of less than 2,000, technically anywhere in Star is its heart). The bar features the dark, heavy woods associated with most Irish pubs, and little green cafe curtains in the windows facing the parking lot give it an instantly homey feel.
A 50-inch flat screen provides an audio and video backdrop for the huge patio and back yard that, according to a couple of the servers, is a popular wedding rehearsal location. Several smaller flat-screen TVs share wall space inside with typical pub signs ("Lovely day for a Guinness"). All of the TVs were tuned to NFL football on a recent Sunday morning, and snippets of conversation about Boise State's drubbing of New Mexico the night before drifted through the room.
Brunch it was, because mimosas ($2 each) are definitely on the menu. The day's brunch special was a ribeye and two-eggs ($9.95). The stuffed French toast with fruit compote ($7.95) sounded enticing: thick slices of bread stuffed with bananas, walnuts, brown sugar and cinnamon, topped with almond cornflakes. A Guinness malt waffle ($4.95) intrigued.
The ribeye slice was a little flat and a little too fatty, but it's hard to hurt a ribeye, and cooked medium, it was tender and well seasoned. Big bits of green pepper flirted with chunks of perfectly fried red potato, and beautifully oozy eggs would have been great for sopping with the slightly sweet flaky biscuits on the plate had the biscuits not been a little charred on one side.
The dense Guinness malt waffle was an earthy brown color, round and cooked exactly like a waffle should be: crunchy on the outside, soft and moist on the inside. With butter and only a slight drizzle of syrup it was a meal in itself, not too sweet, not too savory. The stuffed French toast was as thick as a Stephen King novel, its almond-cornflake and brown crust crispy like a fresh-baked loaf of bread. A hot berry compote was delicious and would make a fine accompaniment to any meal that needs a hint of sweet. The French toast definitely didn't need that. The cinnamon overwhelmed the anticipated tender flavor of bananas, walnuts and brown sugar, but were the spice toned down a bit, that dish would be worth the drive.
The morning menu at Sully's also includes $4 bloody marys, Captain Crunch French toast, and three different egg and hollandaise specialties. Based on the number of bikers, families, seniors and football watchers, Sully's is a popular Sunday morning stop for breakfast--er, brunch.
--Amy Atkins prefers dinner for breakfast.
Boise Weekly sends two reviewers to every restaurant we review. Read what our other reviewer had to say about Sully's Pub and Grill.