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Mist'Delish

Native American fry bread tacos from a truck

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The image of a battered, off-white delivery truck covered with handmade signs and docked in an overgrown field next to a trailer park does not inspire culinary confidence.

Such is the dicey image given off by Mist'Delish, a Native American food truck that opened earlier this year near the Salvation Army at 4386 W. State St.

But the only dicey thing about the delish made-to-order Indian tacos is the diced lettuce.

At a glance, Mist'Delish's menu may not seem impressive: tacos and fries. But proprietress Misty Lara takes great care to stick to her family's traditional recipes without cutting corners, while also giving a few modern twists.

Mist'Delish's signature dish is the basic fry bread, a staple of Native American food. Lara does it old school, using yeast instead of baking powder for the dough--a lengthy process similar to making sourdough. Then she rolls, tosses and fries every piece to order. It's not quick, but the piping hot bread comes out with a texture somewhere between masa and beer batter and is well worth the wait. The bread is served either dusted with sugar and spices or dressed up in taco fixins.

But Lara offers small modernizations: the choice of chicken instead of ground beef, a drizzling of housemade zesty fry sauce, and what is easily the menu's best item: the taco stack, which layers fresh-cut curly fries and housemade enchilada sauce on top. The bread is good, but drenched in the rich enchilada sauce--the recipe of which is a closely guarded family secret--it sings. Unfortunately, it has to sing through iceberg lettuce, and if you go the traditional taco route, through salsa from a jar.

Lara has plans to push a little further with items like a chile verde Indian taco, but said she doesn't currently have the space to do so.

And the location has other shortcomings beyond the limited space. Mist'Delish is more of a walk-up establishment, but it doesn't have much in the way of walk-up amenities--like sidewalks or parking. Lara has placed a picnic table in the overgrown field, which can be delightful when the sun filters through the treetops just right, or brutally punishing when it's hot as hell outside. Or when you are waiting for the truck to open at whatever abstract time Lara chooses to do so: "Usually around noon," she told Boise Weekly after opening closer to 1 p.m.

But it really doesn't matter where Mist'Delish's fry bread is served or how much iceberg lettuce it's cursed with, because fry bread is not and never will be fancy fine-dining. It comes from the back of a sketchy truck and makes your heart hurt in the best possible way.

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