A visit to Le Coq Rouge by two BW staffers netted one shared result: well-prepared escargots are a delicacy and not just something to avoid when walking damp park paths in Oregon or Washington forests. Both diners are intrepid foodies, so it wasn't surprising they would order the little gastropods--it is a rare find in these parts. But escargot is one of those dishes that can go so horribly wrong, one in which even a single grain of gritty sand can ruin the entire experience. Le Coq Rouge owner/chef Franck Bacquet knows how to do it right--with butter, garlic and fennel. Even the timid might be tempted to try a plate of Helix pomatia.