Food » Boozehound

Hyde Gets Its Jekyll

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Perhaps it was the glare of an evening sun, as its forceful reflection bounced off every smooth surface in sight before retreating back through unadorned windows. Admittedly it could have been the failing attempt at "cozy," a result of the bareness of dark wooden bar shelves and sparsely-pictured walls. I reluctantly resigned myself to considering the clientele as the culprit. No matter where that finger of blame leads, the fact remains (and trust me, we critics do anguish over being so critical), that Harry's on Parkcenter commands not even fleeting moments of interest on a list of possible future bar excursions.

Not without its assets—among them being the familiar (though not stellar) food menu of the Hyde Park version, reasonably priced drafts ($7 for a Bud Light and a Guinness) and its lone pool, bar/restaurant status in the neighborhood—Harry's PC is proof that in Boise, location is the driving force behind new establishments.

When a Harry's HP fan experiences an immediate dislike to the sequel, serious examination is required to determine adequate justification for such negativity. In this case, the word functional continues to surface. HPC gets the job done with food that's been proven successful, friendly staff, an uninspiring beer selection and an even less impressive wine selection. Pool table, check. Harry posters, check. So what is it that HPC is missing that HHP has so effectively embodied? It's the magnet that is Hyde Park and the hole that was filled when a year-round pub and grub took up residence in the urban village. I wish HPC a long a happy relationship with its lunch crowd of business folk, but I'm sticking with 13th and Alturas.

Harry's on Parkcenter, 404 E. Parkcenter Blvd., 424-8211.

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